The Vjosa runs free from the Pindus to the Adriatic without a single dam, and this farm sits on a wide braided section where the water splits into a dozen channels over pale stones. Camping is on a grassy terrace above the flood line, with room for four vehicles and any number of tents.
The family keeps goats, a small vineyard and about two hundred fig trees. Dinner, if you want it, is whatever came off the farm that day, eaten at their table. There is a composting toilet, an outdoor sink, and a solar shower bag arrangement that works better than it sounds.
The swimming spot is a two-minute walk downstream. The water is cold, fast, and clean enough to drink upstream of the ford.